Of course I agreed with the sentiment. About as egregious a piece of commercialisation as you'll ever see. But Easter is done rather differently here and I have to confess that the total absence of chocolate eggs on the shelves, be it January or the last few days of Lent, is itself something of a disappointment. Now I'm fully aware that even in a country as secular as Britain, Easter for many people remains an extremely important religious occasion. For me though, it's always represented a) waaaay too much chocolate*, b) four consecutive days without work and c) a double-fixture football weekend. I'm certainly not alone, I believe - most British people without a religious faith would be able to identify with at least one of those three things, I reckon.
Here, though, Easter remains as it's always been - an extremely important religious affair. If you don't attend church and don't happen upon the procession, you'd only notice the presence of more people in the village than usual as a sign that anything's happening at all. There are a few chocolate rabbits about in the shops, and I mean a few - but the creeping hand of Mammon has yet to really make its presence felt on Easter here. The bar owners will certainly see un uptick in takings for a few days because many of those who come here for Carnival, or during August for holidays, also make the trip home for Semana Santa.
The processions are, frankly, creepy to the irreligious. (Maybe to the faithful too - maybe that's the point. I can't speak for them.) I'm sure many of you have seen the images. The Virgin, or the image of Jesus nailed to the cross or dragging it to his crucifixion, will be taken from its place in the church, hoisted upon the shoulders of the faithful, and carried around the town. In Viana the local priest, a young and cheerful chap by nature, followed behind, a megaphone in hand, incanting mournfully. I did happen upon the procession on Friday, I think it was - emerging from a bar as part of a group of ten, the lively chatter and general noise gave way to a respectful silence as it passed us.
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| I'm talking Old Testament. Real 'wrath of God' type stuff... One for the Ghostbusters fans, there. Photo: Cristina Fernandez. |
They vary slightly from place to place. At some, sorrowful music will be played - possibly even a funeral march. By far the most unsettling part of it, though, is something that's common to all of them; the outfits worn by the attendants. Long robes topped by high, pointed headgear, eyes peeping out of holes, conjure up images of one thing and one thing only in my atheist mind. I don't have to spell it out here, do I? If you're not religious you're surely likely to think of the same thrice-repeated letter that I am. If you are religious, doesn't this instil the fear of God into you in an all-too-literal fashion?
I'm aware, of course, of what they're commemorating. But this is, for me, the very definition of preaching to the converted. If you're a believer, you're likely to have seen these icons in the church already. If you're not, you're either at home eating chocolate or you're watching out of curiosity, for the sake of the spectacle rather than the sentiment. Why are they showing them around town? The point of commemorating in exactly this manner is rather lost on me in my ignorance. One impression is left very clearly, though, even in my know-nothing bonce: just how much more everyday belief there remains in people in Spain compared to the UK, even among those who don't necessarily routinely attend church.
Anyway, I gather that back in the UK the long weekend has, in a coincidence seen about as frequently as Haley's Comet, been one long glorious stint of unbroken sunshine and unseasonable warmth. Hot enough to melt your chocolate eggs, even. Now that would elicit some mournful incantations from your correspondent, let me tell you. However you've passed it - in church, being sick from too much choccy, spring cleaning (booo!) or on the beach(!!!), I hope you've had a happy Easter.
*I don't know what it is about Easter eggs, but the chocolate absolutely tastes different, and better, than in any other form. Given the choice between a Yorkie bar or a Yorkie Easter egg made out of exactly the same stuff, I'll take the egg every time. Brains are weird, eh?
