Fat chance

What's this? You get nothing for weeks on end and then, suddenly, the bloke can't shut up? Well, I said a couple of entries back that Christmas was going to be a bit different for me this year, and so it's proving. I'm writing about stuff I haven't seen or experienced before, and today has provided such a thing.

Today, as on every December 22nd, they draw El Gordo, 'the fat one', the colloquial name for the special Christmas lottery that Spaniards go crazy for every year - see previous entry on the matter. Now I'm familiar with the lottery, and many of the customs associated with it, of course. But I'm usually back in the UK by now, so I've never seen it actually drawn. 

Can't be complicated, right? Just get the machine to do its thing, announce the numbers, job done, surely? Course not. This is a big deal here. As with pretty much every raffle I've ever seen in Spain, it's drawn by 'innocentes' - children. They'll have no association with the promotion or running of the lottery and are above suspicion when it comes to drawing and announcing the winning numbers. This is how everything from the ham at the local football club to the biggest domestic lottery prize in the country is drawn; it's pretty much always a child.

Fair enough. So you get kids to draw the balls. Still can't take long, right? Wrong. This is the biggest lottery draw of the year and there are a lot of prizes. So the draw, live on TV and streamed on the internet, starts at about 9am and goes on until about noon. And the kids sing the numbers, and the associated prizes, as they come out. Here's a recent one, with one of the jackpots and the last number in the sequence being announced. They're showing the balls to the judges, and there's excitement in the crowd, for the size of the prize. 

So this morning, you go into a shop, or a bar, or the tobacconists, and you can hear the kids singing this. It's everywhere. Can you imagine that, for three hours? I don't care how much you like kids, or how much you believe in the luck of the Gordo, that's got to get on your nerves eventually. (Or in my case, in about twenty seconds).

And how the Spaniards believe. Even at €20 per ticket for a chance to win a tenth of any prize that ticket's number may throw up, they buy them from everywhere they go in normal years, to get different numbers from different parts of the country. They exchange them as gifts. And they ignore the fact that on any given week, the jackpot for EuroMillions is larger, the prize is only shared if anybody else has chosen exactly the same numbers as you, and the tickets are an eighth of the cost. 

But this is as much about tradition as genuine chances, as they all know, of course. Nevertheless, you wouldn't put up with three hours of that if some small part of you wasn't listening for your numbers, just in case. Well I wouldn't anyway. "Don't come to the bar after twelve," a bar-owning mate told me cheerfully this morning. "I'll be closing forever 'coz I'll be rich."

----

¿Qué es esto? ¿No hay nada durante semanas y luego, de repente, el tio no se puede callar? Bueno, dije un par de entradas atrás que la Navidad iba a ser un poco diferente para mí este año, y eso está demostrando. Estoy escribiendo sobre cosas que no he visto o experimentado antes, y hoy ha proporcionado tal cosa.

Hoy, como cada 22 de diciembre, sortean El Gordo, el nombre coloquial de la lotería especial de Navidad que los españoles enloquecen cada año - ver entrada anterior al respecto. Ahora estoy familiarizado con la lotería, y muchas de las costumbres asociadas a ella, por supuesto. Pero normalmente ya estoy de vuelta en el Reino Unido, así que nunca he visto que se sortee. 

No puede ser complicado, ¿verdad? Sólo hacer que la máquina haga lo suyo, anunciar los números, trabajo hecho, seguramente. Por supuesto que no. Esto es algo importante. Como con casi todas las rifas que he visto en España, son sorteadas por "inocentes" - niños. No tienen ninguna relación con la promoción o el funcionamiento de la lotería y están fuera de sospecha cuando se trata de sortear y anunciar los números ganadores. Así es como se sortea todo, desde el jamón del club de fútbol local hasta el mayor premio de la lotería nacional del país; casi siempre es un niño.

Me parece justo. Así que haces que los niños sacan las bolas. Todavía no puede tomar mucho tiempo, ¿verdad? No. Este es el mayor sorteo de lotería del año y hay muchos premios. Así que el sorteo, en vivo por TV y en streaming por internet, comienza a las nueve de la mañana y dura hasta el mediodía. Y los niños cantan los números, y los premios asociados, a medida que salen. Aquí hay uno reciente, con uno de los botes y el último número de la secuencia anunciado. Están mostrando las bolas a los jueces, y hay emoción en la multitud, por el tamaño del premio. 

Así que esta mañana, entras en una tienda, o en un bar, o en los estancos, y puedes oír a los niños cantando esto. Está en todas partes. ¿Te imaginas eso, durante tres horas? No me importa cuánto te gusten los niños, o cuánto creas en la suerte del Gordo, eso tiene que ponerte de los nervios eventualmente. (O en mi caso, en unos veinte segundos).

Y cómo creen los españoles.Incluso a 20 euros por boleto para tener la oportunidad de ganar un décimo de cualquier premio que el número de ese boleto pueda ganar, los compran en todos los lugares a los que van en años normales, para obtener diferentes números de diferentes partes del país.  Los intercambian como regalos.E ignoran el hecho de que en una semana cualquiera, el premio mayor de EuroMillions es mayor, el premio sólo se comparte si alguien más ha elegido exactamente los mismos números que tú, y los boletos cuestan una octava parte del costo. 

Pero esto es tanto una tradición como una oportunidad genuina, como todos saben, por supuesto. Sin embargo, no aguantarías tres horas de eso si una pequeña parte de ti no estuviera escuchando tus números, por si acaso. Bueno, no lo haría de todos modos. "No vengas al bar después de las doce," me dijo alegremente un amigo que es dueño de un bar esta mañana. "Cerraré para siempre porque seré rico."

Doing things differently

It's just over a week away now, and like everybody else, Christmas this year is going to be a bit different for me. A lot different, actually. With my mother being in a high-risk group, and cases rising fast in the south-east of England, it's just not worth the risk I'd be putting her in, or the possible enforced ten-day quarantine that may be necessary on arrival. There's also the possible faff of the journey home - I'll come back to that.

So, for the first time in my life, I'll be spending Christmas outside of the UK. I've mentioned in these entries before, the difference between the overwhelming Christmas lights, decorations, etc, in the retail streets of Britain, compared to the rather more understated way it's done here. I don't know if that's the same back home this year - it hardly seems worth decorating streets that are largely going to remain empty - but this year's decoration of the plaza mayor, the main square, in the village, is rather good in my view.

A metal 'tree' built around the
square's fountain. I like it.

    There's also a competition this year for the
     best window display in the local shops,
     and a big push to get people to spend
     locally, both brainchildren of my other
     half. Since we can't really go anywhere,
     like many other people, backing local
     business has become an essential element
     in the fight to keep the economy alive
     when we eventually emerge from this
     pandemic.

     There are some non-window displays that
     say a lot about the culture here as well.
     To a Brit, a wide selection of beers at the
     local boozer is more or less a given,
     especially these days with craft beers
     being hugely popular. While I'm lucky
     that there are a couple of bars with
     a decent selection of beers in the
     village, it's by no means the norm here. 

Frankly, Estrella Galicia is king. It's absolutely ubiquitous - their branding is everywhere and almost all the bars sell it, the majority on draught. It far outsells any other beer here and some people won't drink any other beer. I could, rather than just explain its place in the culture here at such length, show you this, adorning one of the bars:

Mmm. Beer.

We are at least free to go to the bars at the moment, being pretty free of Covid cases locally, and therefore at liberty to enjoy such invention.

There are differences, too, in how Christmas is actually celebrated in the home. There's no one, standard dish that most people eat - no annual turkey genocide across Spain. The big Christmas meal itself is often lamb or shellfish, or both, and it's eaten on Christmas Eve. Dec 25th is for going out for a drink, or mass, of course, and isn't that big a deal here. Many people don't exchange presents until Jan 6th, the day the three kings arrive. Got to be a killer wait for the kids, and no sooner have you got your hands on your new Scalextric than you're back to school again. Ouch. Me and Cris will be exchanging presents UK style, on Dec 25th - neither of us have that much patience.

Then there's New Year's Eve. Now as many who know me will already know, I don't like NYE much. I've never understood what people are celebrating, particularly - the change of one day to another happens every 24 hours. And while I certainly understand that many people will be delighted to see the back of 2020, for me this year, midnight on NYE marks the moment I lose EU citizenship and Brexit finally happens. This is singularly depressing, and the chaos of the talks and the complete lack of clarity about what's going to happen on so many issues demonstrate all too clearly that, straight away, it's going to show what a shit idea it was from the start. It's also, going back to what I said earlier, another reason not to fly to the UK right now. What's it going to be like, on top of all the Covid crap, flying back into the EU from the UK in the first few days after we leave - is anybody going to know how to deal with it? Which queues? Do we have to pay that extra £7 tax thingy that's been mooted? Do we even have the right to travel there at all, not being on the Covid safe list? No thanks - I'll wait a while.

But, anyway, back to what I was saying. Most people in the UK go out, pay to get into a bar they can usually access for free, wait in six-deep-at-the-bar queues to get pissed, cuddle their mates and strangers at midnight, and crash home shit-faced in the early hours, right? Not here. Standard form here is to have dinner at home, 9 or 10 o'clock. You celebrate the midnight moment by stuffing a dozen grapes down your neck before the chimes are out, then go out, around 1am. Most people knock it on the head around 11am. This year, the bars have to shut at 1.30am, so many bar owners are expecting most people to not bother going out at all. A major departure from the usual habit will be required to fill the bars even to their current limited capacities.

However you ultimately end up celebrating the whole show this year, have as merry a one as possible. Be safe, and may 2021 not be the shit-storm that the outgoing year has been. I'm off to watch Muppet Christmas Carol.

-

Falto poco más de una semana, y como para todo el mundo, la Navidad de este año va a ser un poco diferente para mi. Muy diferente, en realidad. Con mi madre en un grupo de alto riesgo, y los casos aumentando rápidamente en el sudeste de Inglaterra, no merece la pena correr el riesgo en el que la pondría, o la posible cuarentena de diez dias que ha ser necesaria. También está el posible lio del viaje de vuelta a casa. Volveré a hablar de esto mas adelante. Asi que, por primera vez en mi vida, pasaré la Navidad fuera del Reino Unido.

Ya he mencionado en este blog, la diferencia entre las abrumadores luces navideñas, decoraciones, etc., en las calles comerciales de Gran Bretaña, en comparación con la forma más discreta en que se hace aqui. No sé si es lo mismo en Inglaterra este año - no parece que valga la pena decorar las calles que en gran parte van a permanecer vacias - pero la decoración de este año de la plaza mayor en el pueblo es un espectáculo, en mi opinión.

Un árbol de metal construido alrededor
de la fuente de la plaza, con luces
por todas partes. Me gusta.

  También hay un concurso este año para
  el mejor escaparte de las tiendas locales,
  y un gran impulso para conseguir que
  la gente gaste dinero en los establecimientos
  locales. Ya que no podemos ir a ninguna
  parte, apoyar a la comunidad local y a los
  negocios locales, se ha convertido en un
  elemento esencial en la lucha por mantener
  la economía viva cuando finalmente
  salgamos de esta pandemia. 

  Para un británico, una amplia selección
  de cervezas en los bares es más o menos
  un hecho, especialmente en estos días con
  las cervezas artesanales siendo
  enormemente populares. Aunque tengo
  suerte que hay un par de bares con una
  seleccion decente de cervezas en el pueblo,
  no es de ninguna manera la norma aqui.

Francamente, Estrella Galicia es el rey. Su presencia es casi absoluta - su marca esta en todas partes y casi todos los bares la venden, la mayoría en barril. Se vende much más que cualquier otra cerveza aqui y algunas personas no beben ninguna otra cerveza. Podría, en lugar de explicar su lugar en la cultura de aquí tan extensamente, mostrarles esto, adornando uno de los bares:

Mmm. Cerveza.

Somos al menos libres de ir a los bares en este momento, estando bastante libres de casos Covid localmente, y por lo tanto en libertad de disfrutar de tal invento.

También hay diferencias en la forma en que se celebra la Navidad en casa. No hay un solo plato estándar que la mayoría de la gente coma, no hay un genocidio de pavos en toda España. La gran comida de Navidad en si es a menudo cordero o marisco, o ambos, y se come en Nochbuena. El 25 de diciembre is para salir a tomar algo, o a misa, por supuesto, y no es gran cosa aquí. Mucha gente no intercambia regalos hasta el 6 de enero, el día en que llegan los tres reyes. La espera de los niños debe ser mortal, y tan pronto como tengas en tus manos tu nuevo Scalextric, volverás a la escuela. Ouch. Cris y yo intercambiaremos regalos al estilo del Reino Unido, el 25 de diciembre. Ninguno de los dos tiene tanta paciencia.

Luego está la víspera de Año Nuevo. Como muchos de los que me conocen ya sabrán, no me gusta mucho celebrar el fin de año. Nunca he entendido lo que la gente esta celebrando, en particular - el cambio de un día a otro ocurre cada 24 horas. Y aunque ciertamente entiendo que mucha gente estará encantada de ver el final del 2020, para mi este año, la medianoche en fin de año marca el momento en que pierdo la ciudadanía de la UE y Brexit finalmente es una realidad. Esto es singularmente deprimente, y el caos de las conversaciones y la completa falta de claridad sobre lo que va a suceder en tantos temas demuestran con demasiada claridad que, de inmediato, va a mostrar la idea de mierda que fue desde el principio.

También es, volviendo a lo que dije antes, otra razón para no volar al Reino Unido en este momento. ¿Como será, además de toda la mierda de Covid, volar de vuelta a la UE desde el Reino Unido en los primeros días después de que no vamos? ¿Que colas? ¿Tenemos que pagar esa tasa extra de siete libras de impuestos que ha sido discutida? ¿Tenemos siquiera el derecho de viajar allí, sin estar en la lista de seguridad de Covid? No, gracias. Esperaré un poco.

Pero, de todos modos, volviendo a lo que estaba diciendo. La mayoría de la gente en el Reino Unido sale, paga entrar en un bar que normalmente puede acceder de forma gratuita, espera en colas de seis en el bar para emborracharse, abraza a sus compañeros y desconocidos a medianoche, y se queda en casa con cara de mierda a primera hora, ¿verdad? 

Aqui no. La forma estándar aqui es cenar en casa a las 9 o 10 en punto. Celebras el momento de la medianoche metiéndote una docena de uvas en el cuello antes de que suenen las campanas, y luego sales, alrededor de la 1 de la madrugada. La mayoría vulve a casa alrededor de las 11 de la mañana.

Este año, los bares tienen que cerrar a la 1.30 de la madrugada, así que muchos dueños de bares esperan que la mayoría de la gente ni se molesta in salir. Se requerirá un cambio importante en el habito habitual para llenar los bares incluso con su limitada capacidad actual.

Sea cual sea la forma en que termines celebrando todo el espectáculo este año, que sea lo más alegre posible. Tengan "sentidiño", y que el 2021 no sea el desastre que ha sido el año que se va. Me voy a ver el Cuento de Navidad de los Teleñecos.

(Gracias a Cristina por su ayuda con la traducción.)

Lotteries

This entry, on what is a deeply depressing morning for many millions of Brits, myself included, is going to be a curious mixture of politics and Spanish Christmas habits.

I wake up this morning scarcely recognising the country I've left behind. An election in which former mining communities like Blyth can collectively forget what life is like under a large Tory majority, in which Dennis Skinner's seat can turn blue, in which the final nail is being busily polished for Scotland's membership of the Union, feels fundamentally at odds with how I've always pictured the British nature.

That's not to say this couldn't be seen coming, as shocking as some results like the ones I've mentioned above may be in isolation. My partner has retained a resolute optimism that minds had changed since 2016, that our departure from the EU would ultimately never happen. It's an optimism I've never shared. A right-wing dominated press, owned by an ever-smaller group of billionaire barons, has been busy sowing xenophobic seeds which have sprouted healthily in the north of the country. Genuine belief that getting out of the EU and the supposed drop in immigration that would entail would make for a better future gave us the referendum result in 2016, and those people want what they voted for. They still seem to believe the lies they were told.

It's come down to that, in my opinion. Brexit has so divided the country, that it alone would have been enough to hand this election to the Tories. This was another referendum in all but name, but if you also throw in the constant vitriol the likes of the Mail and the Sun - still comfortably the biggest-selling papers in Britain for all that circulation is down everywhere - have thrown at Corbyn in personal attacks, you've got a Labour leader that many people regarded as unelectable to add to the anti-EU sentiment. Hence the total clusterfuck we have to digest today.

The crumbs of comfort have to be looked for with a microscope. My home city Brighton remains a little island of red and green in a sea of southern blue. The good people of Liverpool have not forgotten their abandonment by the Thatcher administration, and kept the city red. (Chin up, Hels.) I'm oddly pleased for the Scots. Separatism is anathema to me, but the fact is that they will now absolutely hold another referendum on leaving, they will absolutely vote to leave after the promises made to them if they stayed were (of course) broken, and will then remain within or rejoin the EU. So this separatist movement at the same time stands for unity - just with Europe, not Britain. A pretty damning indictment and admirably respectable.

If I hadn't already left, I'd absolutely be looking for a way out now. An increasingly isolated, deep-blue Britain tied ever-closer to a United States possibly still led by Trump is a dystopian future I'd want no part of. Those people to whom getting out of the EU was more important than, for example, not selling off the NHS - does anybody, anybody, seriously believe the Tory promises on that score? - will be the ones who most surely reap what they've sewn. You can bet your arse that the patrician class will be able to afford the drugs, won't have to wait in corridors, won't die of neglect in an American-style health 'service'. Maybe then, when it's too late, people will realise what they've done.

How do I pick myself out of the slough of despond that's in danger of settling? Ham and hampers. Obviously.

When I head to Britain for Christmas on 19th December, the enormous difference between how it's done back home and how it's done here will again strike me. There are, of course, a few lights strung across roads here. But it's nothing like even a small village of Viana's size would do in Britain. Nor do you see lights twinkling in people's homes, suspiciously perfectly triangular 'trees' outlined in their windows. It looks, basically, a lot less Christmassy. There are signs, though.

The most obvious ones are in the bars, which sell lottery tickets for the big Christmas draw. For some reason, Spaniards go completely crazy for the lottery at Christmas. Tickets for the biggest one are given as gifts, with some bizarre superstitions about not giving one from a different area to somebody who's gifted you a ticket from their area. The tickets all have the numbers already printed on them, you see, and are different everywhere you go. So you have people buying them everywhere they stop in Spain to make sure they've got loads of different numbers. OK, fair enough. Except. Ex-cept. Each of these tickets costs €20, and is known as a 'décimo'. That's because holding the winning number entitles you to a tenth of any prize that ticket may win, as they're sold in perforated sheets of ten. So you'd have to buy all the tickets of a particular serial number, costing €200, to take home the whole prize. These tickets are sold in their millions, despite the fact that on any given weekend the Euromillions jackpot can be bigger than the Spanish Christmas prize, the tickets cost a tenth of the price and if you happen to have the only ticket with the winning numbers on it, you keep the lot.

There are cheaper ways to get involved. All the bars also raffle off hampers, or legs of ham similar to the one I won in the half-time raffle at the football. The hams are tempting enough, but the hampers are absolute monsters. Clipped on the left-hand side of the image of this one is a grown man's coat to give you some idea of scale:

It has to be tied to the ceiling at the top,
to stop it collapsing under its own weight.

The way this works, you usually pay between €3 and €6 for an entry, depending on the size of the prize, and take a two-digit number from 00 to 99. Your name goes on a poster against that number, and if the last two digits of the big Christmas lottery match your two, congratulations, you've won the chance to wrestle the bastard home.

I shudder to think what me and my partner, the two of us already overweight, would do with one of these if we win it. Confronted with so much chocolate, biscuits, alcohol and top-notch ham, and dealing with a new year that will see the dawn of the post-EU, Tories-doing-what-the-fuck-they-want Britain, I've got a horrible feeling it'd all be gone by Easter. And that's being conservative. With a small c. A very small c.

On this day to end all days...

...apparently(!), here's what's been on my mind in the planet's final moments.

Starting with a serious note, it seems that the latest gun atrocity in the States has been sufficiently shocking that, finally, there may be some real debate on gun control. The President is openly supporting a ban on assault weapons which, while hardly a cure-all, would at least be a start and suggest the conversation was beginning to happen. Let's hope some small good comes out of what has been an unimaginable horror for those of us detached from it.

But turning to the forthcoming apocalypse (as I write there are just a couple of hours to go). It seems there are now two mountain redoubts built by aliens to shield the believer from the end - one in Serbia, one in France. The small French village at the foot of one of them has had so many visitors (over 10,000!) that they've had to seal the area off and the Mayor had called for people not to go there. This raises questions:

How are people supposed to get into the hideout once they get there? How does one enter a mountain? Is there a door? Some sign, invisible to those of us who think these poor souls are deluded nincompoops, pointing the way?

What do they think they'd emerge into? I've read tales of the end coming about in various ways, from another planet hitting us, through rapture to zombie apocalypse (which plenty of people seem positively itching to happen). What exactly do those, assuming they'd got in, think there'd be left to come out to? Would you even want to?

Anyway. I was thinking about all this in the Post Office queue the other day, as you do. I was waiting to collect a parcel that they'd been unable to deliver, and it being near Christmas - why are people bothering? The world's going to blow up. - there was a bit of a wait. So I perused the various posters etc., adorning the walls. One of them, helpfully, informed one that the little cubby-hole from which undelivered parcels could be collected would be open extra days and longer hours in the build-up to the festive period, in order that people could 'collect there parcels' (sic).

This at the Post Office. The very deliverer, at least until recently, of the written word no less. Makes me wish I were sealed in a mountain sometimes, it does - fair gives me the shivers.

Happy apocalypse, all.

Time and a place

I've just been through Piccadilly Circus on a bus, on the way to work. At all the exits to the tube there, and on the street junctions, were groups of young lads and lasses dressed in Santa Claus outfits, handing out flyers.

Now, speaking as a lover of Christmas, I find this irritating and slightly depressing. Can we not be allowed to live our lives chronologically correctly, as the occasions actually fall? Christmas in September, Easter in February, school uniforms being plugged the moment the summer holidays start (how I hated that as as kid...) There are weeks between, for example, November 5th and Christmas, during which time thoughts can more reasonably be turned toward it, I think. At least by then it's dark and cold, as it's supposed to be at Christmas. This morning was pleasant and sunny - the Piccadilly Circus girls, for example, were wearing those 'sexy' Santa short skirts and stockings, which I could not see them being so cheerful in come December.

But since we're busy moving everything forward in the calendar, why stop there? Let's all go to the beach in January, and demand birthday presents 9 weeks in advance. Why not turn up for meetings days before you're supposed to? Can we please be allowed to enjoy the last few rays of the sun before we start putting twinkly lights up?

Goodwill to all men

Because I was feeling pissed off at something else entirely, the dropping through my door of an otherwise innocuous religious leaflet created an exaggerated sense of indignation this evening. I was going to e-mail the man responsible for the leaflet's production and ask him (politely) not to put any further missives through our letterbox, but since he's from the church literally across the road and our little triangle of streets have formed a small, friendly and quite tight community which is rare in London, and in which my girlfriend plays an active part, (though not through the church of course), I thought better of it.

That doesn't stop me taking out my frustrations on you though, dear reader. It seems, from the wording of the leaflet, that I 'need' God to have a fulfilling Christmas, and that I can't find peace at Christmas without Him. Well, excuse me for thinking the love, company and happiness of my friends and family would be enough. It's always been enough to help me struggle through Christmas before, having instead to get my enjoyment of the season from the very real and human interaction with those same people, the exchange of gifts, the odd glass of ginger ale with a dash of lime and a pressie or two.

Now I'm aware of the contradiction inherent in my enjoyment of the gifts in particular, given what the Church would like you to believe are the original reasons for gift giving at Christmas, but what the hell - I still get a kick out of giving presents to people I care about and, yes, receiving them. I get a bigger kick from being surrounded by people I care about deeply and having the opportunity to spend a bit longer in their company than is usually the case. In short, you enjoy Christmas your way, Mr Vicar, and I'll enjoy it mine. The difference being that I don't shove leaflets through your door telling you that the way you do so is hollow and inadequate.

What if I did, though? Some kind of atheist polemic, urging them to forget the Church's definition of Christmas and revel in the more human (possibly pagan in origin, it's all a bit muddled) way of going about things this December, printed up and posted through his letterbox, maybe? Perhaps, if he had kids, one of them may pick up said document and ask him about its contents. It may be that, while respecting my opinion, he wouldn't be too happy to have it pushed through his door. Funny that - if that's how he'd feel, then we'd agree on one thing this year at least.